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Saturday, March 17, 2018

Agar in cosmetics

You have probably heard of agar (also known as agar-agar) before. Its a polysaccharide obtained from algae of the agarophyte type. Agar is probably most known for its use in the food industry, where it is a great vegetarian alternative for gelatine. Agar is used among others in ice cream, sauce and cream thickeners, in candy and as a clarifying agent in beer brewing. But agar also has its unique role in skin care and cosmetic production. Lets have a closer look where it can be used and what benefits it has. 




Agar is a colourless powder, which is not soluble in cold water or ethanol. It is soluble in hot water, forming a gel at 1% concentration of agar in water. Agar melts at 85 °C  and solidifies at 32-40 °C . This important property results in a balance where agar has good melting, yet also good stability, which is important for its use in cosmetics.  In the cosmetic industry it is mostly used a s gelling, thickening and stabilising agent for example in facial cream/lotion, foundation, shaving creams, tooth paste, liquid soap, body wash and others. Mixtures of glycerol and agar are a fantastic remedy for dried skin.

How can you use agar in your homemade cosmetics? A great recipe to start out with is an agar peel off mask. You can prepare all sorts of versions of this mask, but the base always remains the same. Feel free to experiment adding yoghurt, clay or other ingredients to it. 

Agar peel off mask 

- 1/4 cup very hot - water (needs to be at least 85 °C)
- 1 teaspoon organic green tea leaves (to read about the benefits of green tea read this article: https://plainandpure.blogspot.be/2014/03/green-tea-benefits-in-skin-care.html)
- 1/2 tablespoon agar powder 
- 1 teaspoon organic honey 
- 1 teaspoon plant oil of your choice (recommended are avocado oil, evening primrose oil or argan oil)

 In a small pan heat the water until it is almost boiling, add the tea leaves and simmer for 4-5 minutes. Drain off the leaves and keep the water. Add agar powder while it is still very hot and mix well. Leave to cool down until it start to form a gel. Add the honey and oil and any other ingredient you might desire (e.g. yoghurt, mashed banana, grated cucumber, clay, etc.). Apply the gel like mask to your face and leave for 10-15 minutes until it is completely dry and can be peeled off. 



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